Tierra del Fuego

We do not hurry to get to Ushuaia. On the road, we pay tribute to the beautiful Desdemona's carcass washed up, before following the Beagle Channel, Estancia Harberton towards. This is the oldest estancia Island (1887), but was fully converted for tourism and tours have replaced sheep. Life of its founder, Pastor Bridges, is closely linked to Tierra del Fuego. It was the latest in a long series of English missionaries came to evangelize the Indians lighted Yamana. He's stubborn to settle and "civilize" them, detaching them from their ancient traditions. The Europeans taught them the existence of God ... as to precipitate the reunion! At the end of the nineteenth century, Pastor Bridges tries to reverse and stop the genocide. But it is too late, and he sees the last Indian to die one by one in the mission of Ushuaia. Macabre irony, he spent much of his life to write an English-Yamana, which he completed while turn off the last of the breed. He then resigned and left Ushuaia to settle here, on the Beagle Channel, as a sheep farmer.

The ranch is immense, it covers 20 000 hectares. And yet, trying to camp there, we go beyond to reach the end of the road, almost at the end of the Beagle Channel. And there, before our eyes, dolphins frolicking in the water. Unanimously our two votes, it will be "our" side of the world, further south Ushuaia, wild and so much more peaceful. We spent one day at a time and magical routine, transcended by a feeling of being in a truly unique...